However, a drip edge may be added before or after a shingle is placed. The owner has the power to decide if they should omit the drip edge in the hopes of saving money, but little does one understand that they will bear the consequences afterward. It is a decision taken by residents to save expenses.

But it is also a decision made by roof companies to get a project by deliberately lowering a price in the hopes that the client would not detect the lack of a drip edge. Nevertheless, a drip edge may help your rooftop last longer by shielding the whole structure and underpinning infrastructure from water leaks, preventing constant maintenance.

Now that you know the purpose of drip edges on roofs, here are more reasons why you should invest in it. So check out these reasons why you need a drip edge. Drip edges are designed to entirely hide any existing openings between your fascia and your rooftop. As a result, it prevents rainwater out of your roof base, especially air-made water.

It also prevents pests and wild rodents out of your loft, which might cause damage to your deck, rooftop, or chimney. Nobody likes to discover rodents enter their home because of a roofing hole. Rainwater should be kept away from the fascia panel and the margins of your balcony or terrace for extra security and lifespan. Drip edges will prevent water erosion to your fence, pillars, and exterior areas. Roof gutters will also protect the base of your property.

However, stagnant water near your structure can undermine the ground over a period, causing serious concerns. Preventing your rooftop and slope from water leaks and degradation will extend its lifespan significantly. Furthermore, continuous water circulation out from the rooftop will aid in the removal of contaminants and fungus, which can trigger deterioration.

Safeguarding your roofing from the weather means it will last longer, save you cash, and retain the worth of your property. Cut the initial square cut across the single-ply piece of the top. Next cut back square across the folded part of the top of the T. Cut the 45 degree bird's mouth to allow the long end to be folded around the rake to the eave.

TIP: Make sure to support the long end of the cut — if you let it fall after cutting, it will bend down and kink the drip edge. Be sure to tuck the drip edge under the starter strip and felt paper.

Slide the corner tight to the fascia. Make sure the corner is tight, and that the bottom edge is tight to the fascia before nailing off the drip edge. Place a nail at one end, then the other. You may need to nail through the starter strip into the drip edge. If you do, make sure the nails will not align with any shingle seams or cutouts above.

Another tip: When sliding metal, if it doesn't slide in easily, don't force it. Go over and look to see why it is stuck. Drip Edge Installation on an Existing Roof.

A look at types of drip edge flashing, how to cut it, and how to retrofit it to an existing roof. Drip Edge Roof Flashing Types: L-shape drip edge is a simple degree bend with a flare out at the bottom of the short leg. However, the drip edge is typically part of a roofing job. What you want is to get the roofers to install the drip edge, leaving room for the gutters.

Then, the gutter guy will come in and finish up. Rachel, thanks for the well-written article— it provides clear and valuable insight for my roofing project. Aesthetically it has a nice look, compared to the alternative of a shingle overhang at the gable, although I could also see the tendency for water to find its way beneath the shingle at the point where it butts to the lip on the drip edge.

Anyhow, there is no mention of this variety of drip edge in the article, so I am curious as to your thoughts of doing it this way, vs with the galvanized type depicted in the other photos.

Todd, You are correct. That was done to further prevent water infiltration. However, this was in a high-wind area and was required. As you noted, the lip can also retain water and allow entry at a vulnerable spot in the future. This image was used mainly to demonstrate the correct order for installation more so than to suggest the style. I would go with the standard drip edge and allow that overhang unless code dictates otherwise.

I am adding drip edge to my shed. When installing the drip edge along the eaves no gutters , when overlapping two pieces, is there a cut I should be making to properly marry the two, or do I just place one directly over the other? Silicone the seam? Hi Josh, As long as it is a standard drip edge, they should be able to lift the 1st course of roofing shingles and remove a portion of the drip edge.

Then, replace it with correctly overlapping corner sections. A well regarded sunroom manufacturer in our area has almost completed our screen in deck, with a gable room. Should I demand that the shingles me trimmed or I am worried over nothing?

It depends. It is standard in many areas to allow Too much overhang can cause the singles to crack from lack of support or cause them to catch in strong winds. However, city requirements may vary from one area to another. So, I would first check with your city code. Then, make your decision based on what your local requirments are.

I want to install drip edge and gutters on my 32 year old home. I have a clay tile roof. Do I have to remove a row of tiles to nail in the drip edge, or can the drip edge be nailed into the fascia?

I am also wondering if you are supposed to install a band of some sort of underlayment on the roof edge of the drip edge. I am really trying to avoid removing a row of clay tile—that would be pretty hard. If the clay tile overhangs the roof by an inch, do I even need a drip edge or can I go with just gutters? Kimberly, I am not as confident in my knowledge on tile roofs.

But, I believe most areas are now requiring a drip edge with new installations. If I were doing a repair and got the request that you are making, I would recommend the client get high-back gutters.

Thank you for this article. I believe I have water getting behind the drip edge in the corner of a valley of my roof. The drip edges look to have been cut to abut vs. Surface tension of the water during rains causes the water to be sucked into this gap. Photos are here for a visual.

Accordingly, water has rotted out the fascia below this valley. Prior to replacing the fascia, I need to plug this gap. Thanks for any wisdom you can provide. Yes, it looks like the edges are not overlapped from what I can see, and the cut made on the right side of the image is not clean.

That jagged gap will allow water to funnel in by the gallons. For now, I would plug that hole with silicone to prevent further damage until you can do a proper fix. When you can, have that valley repaired so that the drip edge is correct.

You may also want to check your shingle overhang. It appears that they failed to leave enough. However, images can be deceiving and I may be miss reading the photo.

For a complete and solid repair, have the lower 3rd of the valley shingles removed. This way you can inspect the damage and see if the waterproofing membrane or flashing is still intact. Best of luck! I just wanted to say thank you for the article on installing drip edge.

I am a new homeowner and it has been really helpful. A few days ago, my brother-in-law came over to help me install my drip edge and noticed that we were doing it wrong! He said that we need to use a soffit board instead of flashing as the sealant and then attach the sealant to an eave or fascia board with screws or nails. This is great advice! Thanks again for your expertise in this field. It is very much appreciated! First off, I love seeing a woman who is great at construction!

I greatly admire you. I found this article looking for how to replace a few strips of drip edge blown down in a Louisiana hurricane. My roof is relatively new from a previous hurricane.

I am now concerned because what you said about the drip edge needing to be installed off of, not flush with, the fascia, as mine is! The shingles also hang a good bit over the edge. Janelle, thanks for your kind words. Being that you are in Louisiana, vinyl coverings are a good thing. Although it is usually still best to have the drip edge pulled away from the fascia, the vinyl should provide protection from any water that rolls back.

The roofer probably installed the drip edge slightly away from the facia, but after the vinyl was installed that gap was reduced. It is also possible that your township requires the install as is. I have found that high-wind areas often have requirements that are different than the norm.

If you feel that it may be a problem, you could check with your local code to see if everything is as it should be. Hi, I am putting drip edge on eaves side only, under existing asphalt shingles. That is, the flat horizontal edge of the drip edge extends past the edge of the asphalt shingles. Will this wick water under shingles? Capillary action?

Thank you. Sara, one of two things are happening.